Futuristic
Modern shapes, plastic fabrics and crazy cut outs are a huge trend on the runways. Sculptured silhouettes in unique shapes, and abstract designs are popular among top designers like Alexander Wang and Stella McCartney. Monochromatic looks in white and geometric prints in unusual plastics give these designs a "space age-y" effect. Stella McCartney used a selection of metallic foil-like fabrics to create a modern and edgy take on futuristic. Overall, the collections look clean and simple, but these modern designs are breaking us into a new year for 2012 full speed ahead.
With transsexual model Lea T and the "femiman" icon Andrej Pejic amoung the androgynous models who strutted on the autumn/winter 2011/12 runways, this season, all the coolest girls will be borrowing from the boys, with pinstripes, felt suiting, white shirts and trousers providing a fresh riff on tailoring, white silk ties, cummerbunds and overcoats pack a manly punch.
Feminine curves were literally enveloped under this masculine aesthetic, as the super-sized, slouchy cuts and jackets and overcoats shown at Stella McCartney, Nicole Farhi, and Alexander Wang proved. The whole look is pristinely tailored, come label it as sophisticated glamour, it's the epitome of feminine meets masculine.
This print originated from Mexico and it has long been worn by tribesmen. The traditional and original Aztec print depicted the appreciation of animals. But today's Aztec print combines the abstract and the traditional design.
These looks found their richness in their details. From intricate embroidery at Anna Sui to tasseled triumphs at Versace and Matthew Willamson, the artisan appearance of these pieces lent them an upscale glamour. Mixing fabrics and textures also brought an injection of luxury as seen at Kenzo, while print was key at Missoni. This season a big focus is on feminine pieces given a harder, tribal inspired edge.
This Autumn/Winter 2011-2012, designers including Frida Giannini, Miu Miu, Prada and Donna Karan have ushered in a season of sheer forties glamour. Complete with furs, pearls, gloves and shrugs- all revolving around the pencil skirt. Hemlines have dipped to a strict- yet elegant- on the knee length that is at once feminine and very alluring.
Gaulitier kept it sexy by adding a revealing thigh-high slit to the pencil skirt, while Jonathan Saunders steered away from a predictable interpretation on through the use of unexpected colour combinations.
While Giannini, at Gucci, distilled all the glamour of the decade into her show with fedores and pussy bow blouses thrown into the mix, it was at Miu Miu and Marni that we found what we'll be wearing in our downtime- pretty tea dresses.
Contrasting colours and combinations of texture kept the trend modern and edgy yet it still possessed the elegant vibe the forties is all about.
Minimalism
The clean-cut, distinctly grown-up clothes from the catwalks hark back to 1990s minimalism. Clean sharp lines created tailored pieces with a softer appeal, more romantic feel. As seen on the at Celine, the Autumn/Winter '11 collection streamlined the female figure, with a selection of more fitted pieces in dress form.
Balenciaga used the shoulder as an anchor for the fabric to fall away from the body, creating a more volumised, bulkier silhouette. Simplicity and luxury combine to devise an elegant yet modern product.
Gothic
This look is not for the faint-hearted wearer (or spectator) - with latex, PVC and leather playing a starring role in the trend. Embrace the subtler side of this trend with suggestive sheer inserts, leather panels and black lace. And, if you're going to vamp it up in leather, rubber or PVC, make sure it's oil-slick shiney and only ever in black.
Gareth Pugh and Ann Demeulemeester took a more edgy and modern take on the gothic revival whereas Elie Saab created a romantic and alluring collection with soft ruffled lace and delicate embellishment.
